Below you can see the card paring screen and the gallery screen. Once you launch the app you get an opening window which then gives way to the gallery window which in turn tells you what is happening about transfers.
Apart from loading the app the only other thing you have to do is to download and authorise a small change to your wifi settings on your phone which simply installs the settings for the direct mode to work.
There are equally useful apps available for Android powered devices and the functionality is pretty much identical. I use an iPhone and an iPad and the whole process is eventually controlled by the free app that Eye-Fi make available through the Apple App Store. This way you can use the review function with card 2 (the SD slot) and then every time you protect an image written to the Eye-Fi card it will automatically look to transfer that file to the device you have nominated. Finally, you need to enable Eye-Fi transfer from the camera menu. The second is to get the camera to write RAW files to the CF card and medium size Jpegs to the SD (Eye-Fi) card. The first is to assign the “rate” button to protect selected images. In the EOS5D MkIII menu there are three things that I’d recommend you do. This whole process takes a few minutes and if you get it right, the whole thing test a lot easier from here on in. It is also useful to add a couple of wifi networks and to define which file formats to transfer using the application whilst the card is in the computer because it isn’t possible to alter some settings once the card is in the camera. On the Canon I have assigned the “rate” button to protect images for speed. This means that only images that I have protected in the camera menu get transferred. I choose to only transfer the files I want to my iPhone and so on the card I have selected “Selective Transfer” via the Eye-Fi Centre application. This workflow is all about working in what the manufacturer calls “direct mode”. There are lots of options that will appear once you have loaded the supplied “Eye-Fi Centre” application. When you get the card it should come with an SD card reader and by far the best way to set things up is to use that reader to load the card into a computer. Getting the the settings on the card, your camera and your phone/tablet/computer right is the key to getting everything working well: Without further ado, here is how it all works on the Canon… In practice, they both do much the same job but the orange Eye-Fi one has more options should you want to work differently.
I have two cards (shown left) – an Eye-Fi branded 8Gb Pro X2 and a Sandisk branded 4Gb one. I like to shoot RAW which means that in the X20 I have to do an in-camera RAW conversion to create a Jpeg to send out. It is similar between an EOS5D MkIII and the Fujifilm X20 except that the former has twin card slots (one CF compact flash and one SD secure digital) whereas the latter only has the SD slot.
Inevitably I got a couple of emails using the “ ask me anything” feature of this blog asking me to describe my workflow. When I was rounding up 2013 I mentioned that I had a lot of success using an Eye-Fi card to wirelessly transmit pictures from my cameras (Canon EOS5D MkIII and Fujifilm X20) to either my iPhone, iPad or laptop where I can do a quick edit and caption before sending them to clients.